Saturday, February 11, 2012

BMW Loves Tebow

Just purchased a new IPA recipe for brew #8 at our local homebrew store. Brewmaster's Warehouse is awesome. Fresh high quality ingredients, good prices and helpful staff. If you aren't in Atlanta area, visit them at http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com

Brew #2 - Fat Tebow Ale

Tebow's not fat, he's just big-boned!   
We brewed this beer back in October, 2011 and I only have 1 left in my fridge. This was the last extract recipe that we did before switching to partial mash. There were several reasons I decided to call this the Fat Tebow Ale, but none have to do with Tebow's weight. The TD Brewing Fat Tebow Ale was a New Belgium Fat Tire clone. Both are Colorado products - New Belgium is in Fort Collins and Tebow is in Denver. It was our 2nd homebrew and Tebow's 2nd season. It tastes somewhat like the original and Tebow looks somewhat like an NFL quarterback. Both this beer and Tebow are very sweet but some people would say they are full of crap.

This beer isn't really full of crap - it is full of yeast sediment. Everything went normally on brew day. However, we ended up with far more yeast sediment in these bottles than we should have, approximately 1/4". We let the beer ferment in the primary for 3-4 weeks. We didn't cold crash the primary or use a secondary fermenter and we were a little careless (aka tipsy) on bottling day and stirred up a lot of yeast into the bottling bucket. I know many homebrewers have great success not using a secondary, but this was the only time we didn't do it and for our process we have found that we get much better results with 3 weeks primary and 1-2 weeks secondary, depending on the style and gravity of beer.

To drink the yeast, or not drink the yeast? Generally, you do not want to drink the yeast from the bottom of a homebrew bottle. The best practice is to decant - slowly pour the beer into a glass, leaving the yeast sediment stuck on the bottom. If the yeast is looser and not stuck to the bottom, you can see it "catch" at the shoulder of the bottle and then stop pouring. It is fine to drink a little bit of yeast - some people enjoy the added flavor and it contains healthy B vitamins that are said to help reduce the effects of a hangover. But NEVER drink 1/4" of yeast as shown in the photo above. If you're dumb enough to try it (like me) you will regret it a couple hours later as you are racing to the bathroom.

Todd

AHS Fat Tire Amber Ale (New Belgium) (10B) [03567]
Extract: 7 lb Liquid Malt Extract, 1 lb Base Grains, .88 lb Specialty Grains 
Brewvint 1% Alcohol Boost - 55% maltose, 45% glucose
Wyeast American Ale II + Brewvint Yeast Fuel

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Cheap and easy homebrew bottle preparation

I've read other homebrewers rant about the difficulty of bottling and rave about the joys of kegging.  I really don't find the bottling process difficult at all and don't have much interest in getting into kegging.  I love the option of being able to give a bottle of my homebrew to a friend or take a 6 pack of it to a party.  Kegs, while easier to fill, are also expensive and cumbersome to deal with. If you are a beginning homebrewer or have struggled with bottling in the past, you should try following this process that has been cheap, easy and highly successful!

Necessary supplies to prepare bottles for a 5 gallon batch of homebrew:

  1. (50) Poptop Beer Bottles - You can't use twist offs, but long necks or short necks are fine
  2. (3) 5 gallon buckets - $3-4 each at Home Depot.  You could also just use 1 bucket and fill it multiple times but I like to do all 50 bottles at once.
  3. Oxiclean (unscented) - I bought the 3.5lb tub Kroger brand for around $7.
  4. Scouring Pad - $1
  5. Bottle Drainer Tree - Optional but HIGHLY highly recommended, $20.
  6. A dishwasher
  7. A friend
TOTAL EQUIPMENT COST: $20-$40

STEP 1 - COLLECT 50 POP TOP BEER BOTTLES - How? By drinking beers, of course.  If you are in a hurry to get bottles and don't want to drink 50 beers at once, you could ask friends for their bottles or dumpster dive for them at your local recycling center (gross to me, but people do it.)  You could also buy 50 bottles, but why would you want to pay $.60 for an empty bottle when you can pay $1.20 for a full bottle?  Buy a 12-pack and save the cardboard box.  Rinse the empty bottles.  I always double rinse - fill the bottle 1/3 with water, put my thumb over the opening and shake it vigorously a couple of seconds, empty, and repeat.  When you have consumed and rinsed the entire 12-pack, put the empty bottles back in the original box.  Watch out for some beers that use industrial strength stickers and not paper & glue labels.  For example, Cigar City uses labels that are IMPOSSIBLE to get off.  You should drink the Cigar City, love the Cigar City but recycle the bottles - it's not worth the hassle or time to deal with them.  


STEP 2 - SOAK THE BOTTLES IN OXICLEAN FOR 1-2 DAYS - A standard 5 gallon bucket can hold around 18 bottles.  I have some taller buckets (originally for storing batting practice baseballs) that can hold 24 bottles.  If you want to prep enough bottles at one time you're going to need 2 or 3 buckets.  Put a scoop  of OxyClean in the bucket, fill it about 80% full with warm water, and then start dunking your bottles.  I dunk and then quickly rinse my hands and have never had issues with skin irritation, but you might want to wear rubber gloves.



STEP 3 - SCRUB AND RINSE THE BOTTLES - After a day or two in the Oxiclean, the labels will fall right off.  As you empty the Oxiclean water from the bottle into the sink, scrub it quickly with the scouring pad to remove any glue residue that is left.  There is usually very little and it comes off easily. Keep the trash can handy to throw the labels away - it's best if they don't slip down the garbage disposal, trust me. Double rinse.

Life saver
STEP 4 - DRY BOTTLES ON BOTTLE DRAINER TREE - This is the best $20 a homebrew bottler can spend.  Let the bottles dry overnight (or as long as you want really) to make sure the insides are completely dry.  The nice thing about this model is that it has a handle on top so once you load it up you can easily carry it to another out of the way room.  Once the bottles are dry, I pack them back up in their original boxes until bottling day.  However, if you're not going to need the bottle drainer tree again you could just store the bottles right on the tree.  The only minor glitch here is that this tree holds 45 and you want 48-50 so I just dry the remainder upside down on some paper towel.  (If you don't have a bottle tree yet, you can dry all your bottles upside down on paper towel.)


I will post a follow up next week with our bottling day process after we bottle our next brew.

Todd